3DP gcode

 Recently dove into start code for 3D Printers, thought I'd gather some thoughts and useful links here:

G-Code definitions

http://makerbot.wikidot.com/gcode

https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M132_in_MakerBot 

Sailfish specifics

http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/sailfish.pdf?fbclid=IwAR2PT7_pcGxe505swBpi-ISxyagt3OsGOT0Ri8TJI80Mez79bxWCbGD_8vs

 

Start Code

https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=3156

https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/32744-better-method-to-using-replicator-2-printers-with-cura/

Pyle PP444 phono preamp

I recently bought the $14 Pyle PP444 after some research. Turns out that this design uses thru-hole components so device replacement is possible.

https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?t=118661&start=12

After a quick listen a hum started getting louder and louder. The turn table was grounded to the chassis but I'm not sure if the chassis is grounded to earth very well. 

Comment 1

The hum reported on the test of the Pyle PP444 is easy to solve. All you need is to replace two capacitors on the power supply circuit.

Comment 2

The negative side of the power supply and the lower rail voltage of the op-amp are tied to ground. So some biasing is needed on the input, and the lower side of the input resistors (R8-R9, 47k) are connected to a voltage divider (R5-R6) filtered by capacitors C5 and C8. Although the ripple at C5 is attenuated by the presence of the cartridge, this attenuation factor is of the same magnitude as the mid-band gain of the phono preamp. But there is 16dB more gain at 60Hz, and 12dB more gain at 120Hz. This is where the hum is coming from in the Pyle PP444 test report. 

 

 

Compared to the VSPS

https://phonoclone.com/diy-pho5.html 

BMS chips

Orion BMS uses an Analog Devices LTC6803 addressable 12 cell BMS.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Analog-Devices/LTC6803HG-43ZZPBF?qs=hVkxg5c3xu%252Bmug4aWm2R9A%3D%3D&gclid=Cj0KCQjwk8b7BRCaARIsAARRTL7t7OGfM0v8LE9L51y8Dvf_M4Lw2f0oLHHl9DrusdHq4m3BWhcI-K8aAiQyEALw_wcB 

Data Sheet 

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/609/680324fa-1270693.pdf

 Alternate would be an LTC6811 chip. 

https://www.analog.com/en/products/ltc6811-1.html#product-discussions

This product offers many improvements over the LTC6803 product 

These chips require an isolated output power supply and isolated communication lines in between units.

Underwater ROV

 The YouTube has delivered yet another project worth looking into.

Peter Sripol has posted up a video without enough content for me to go on, so I'm going to document this one a little better and get the project built. I had previously built a little camera pod to drop into our local fishing hole so we can see what is at the bottom so this will fit right in to my little fleet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDM7Ezb_vN0

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5152598/files

Components

    Flashlights

1. The flashlights used on the Peter's build are these Garberiel units. They use 3x     AAA batteries and generally look terrible. For $17 for 2ea, not bad. However,      I'll likely go with a hard-wired setup.
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Garberiel-Flashlight-Underwater-Snorkeling-Battery/dp/B07L5GPG27/

 Motors

1. The motor frames says 550 so we'll go with that until the prints get done.
2. https://www.amazon.com/NSD-35000RPM-Electric-Accessories-Replacement/dp/B07MX78PTL/

Controller

1. Relay

Pro - Super simple, lots of current

Con - back EMF, large space requirement

2. L298N

Pro - h-bridge, logic level control, $10 for 4ea

Con - low current 3A

3. BTS7960

Pro h-bridge, logic level

Con - $14 ea

 Prints

    The thingiverse files are there in the link above. I'll break down what each one is for and how many you'll need.

1. Motor mount sleeve
1. Used for each motor?
2. Dunno how many
   
2. Depth duct motor mount
1. Used for the dive motor
2. Need 1ea
   
3. PVC body sleeve
1. Used to hold the center electronics tube.
2. Need 2ea
4. Rudder
1. Are these needed? They could just be flat pieces.
2. Need 2ea (if at all)
5. Tube weight bracket
1. These hold the white weight tubes to the bottom bracket. Are these needed? Seems like zip ties would work just fine.
2. Need 2ea (if at all)
6. PVC frame sleeve
1. This goes from the 1/2" pipe to the 2" pipe.
2. Need 4ea
7. Dive propeller
1. Used for the dive motor
2. Need 1ea
8. Propeller_1
1. Used for the forward motors
2. Need 2ea
   

Bill of Materials - Pipe

    10' of 1/2" PVC

    4' of 2" PVC

    2' of 3" PVC

    3 way pipe fittings - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086GHR4SJ/ref=emc_b_5_i?th=1 

    4ea 2" end caps

    1ea 3" end cap

    1ea cleanout cap (Peter used a cleanout plug)

    2ea flashlights

    3ea 550 motors

    

Design #2

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ahCW5KINIc

This frame doesn't use any 3D printing but lacks the onboard battery and electronics tube.

MORE TO COME!